The National Atomic Testing Museum and NTSHF in Las Vegas is an underseen oddity in an oasis of high-rise resorts and casinos. Nestled in an impressive building on the south end of the Las Vegas Strip is a hidden gem of American history. Just a short uber ride from Mandalay Bay is a true blast from the past. The museum, an eclectic mix of weighty emotional artifacts and playful pop culture, is a rarity in Vegas. It isn’t trying to take your money, stuff your face, or get you intoxicated(not that any of those things are bad). It is simply educating the public about our country’s complicated past with war and, specifically, the atomic weapon.
Everything is covered from the first test called Trinity to the eventual environmental clean-up of the test site. All of it is appropriate for the entire family, and the layout is designed to be experienced at your own pace. The museum is open to the public for a small fee every day but Wednesday, from 9:30 am until 3:00 pm. Tours are self-guided, and you should plan to spend one to two hours in the museum. Here are the top three reasons to visit the National Atomic Testing Museum and NTSHF while in Las Vegas.
1. You should get out of the casino for at least a half hour
Sure, you could spend all twenty-four hours shoving money into the slots but should you? The casinos would say resoundingly yes, but I might argue it is better to take a step back and appreciate all that Las Vegas has to offer. The museum is inexpensive and air-conditioned, which are both critical in Vegas. General admission is $24, with tickets for children 7-14 just $18. Children under six are free. Active military tickets are also set at $18, and seniors and Nevada residents are discounted to $20. It’s a cheap way to spend an hour and can undoubtedly slow the monetary bleeding should Lady Luck be turning against you.
In a city built on vices and crime, there will be a lot of skeletons. Sin City has a lot of sins to atone for, and one of those is the testing of nuclear weapons just outside the city limits. Along with the environmental impacts, and they were big, the effects on the human test subjects can’t be ignored. Soldiers were often told to climb into bunkers and wait for the boom without being told the risks. For the most part, this was because we weren’t clear on the danger.
The museum doesn’t pull any punches, though, and makes it clear that was only part of the story. There is a very clear the ends justify the means vibe from many of the scientists working then and now. Additionally, a poignant reminder of the human death toll in Japan is felt early in the exhibit. Brutal and chilling wartime photos show the devastation.
2. The numerous collections are rare and massive
Part of the National Atomic Testing Museum’s mission is to collect and preserve materials and artifacts pertaining to the creation and testing of atomic weapons. As a result, they have some of the most comprehensive collections on the subject. Everything from advertising propaganda, personal and professional photos and videos, rare books, and scientific reporting is on display. It is a fascinating glimpse of scientific Americana told through the lens of history.
So many of the artifacts capture a feeling unique to the era of hopeful dread. It is a bizarre mix of kitschy goofiness and somber reality. You feel the gravity of the decisions made during this time in every item and photo. It is a memorable and thoughtful experience that everyone should view. If you can’t make it to the museum right now, many videos are available online for free or for viewing afterward, as the museum itself is quite extensive.
3. Christopher Nolan’s Oppenheimer Requires A Primer
If you are a fan of Christopher Nolan’s films like Inception, Interstellar, and Tenet, you know his cerebral films use a great deal of brain power. His latest Oppenheimer in post-production now is about the life of scientist J. Robert Oppenheimer considered the father of the atomic bomb. With enough star power to heat the earth, including Cillian Murphy as the man himself, Emily Blunt, Matt Damon, and Goodnight Darling and Midsommar’s Florence Pugh, to name a few, it is a hotly anticipated film. Seriously, Robert Downey Junior, The Boys Jack Quaid, Rami Malek, and Stranger Things’ Mathew Modine are also in this overstuffed cast. Nolan has a knack for making movies that function on many different levels. A film about creating the world’s biggest weapon is ripe with complexities.
Oppenheimer is credited with famously quoting from the Hindu text Bhagavad-Gita, “Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds. Although the danger of the weapon is felt in the words, the ominous phrase is often misunderstood. While he watched the first nuclear bomb detonation on July 16th, 1945, these words ran through his mind. A scholar of Hinduism, Oppenheimer took solace and counsel from the philosophy of the religion. He was not literally calling himself death and placing blame on his creation, however. Instead, as with the story of Arjuna, which the ancient text reveals, Oppenheimer was at the mercy of the Great Divine. Regardless of what he did, fate would take over. It is also important to note that in Sanskrit, in which the text was originally written, “Death” is written as “world-destroying time.” Oppenheimer’s discovery changed the world and, in a way, altered time.
As badly as Oppenheimer wanted to absolve himself of his sins, it appears he never achieved that level of enlightenment. Instead, the consequences of his actions haunted him until his death. The Atomic Testing Museum does a great job showing the genius that should be appreciated and the horror of the aftermath without judgment. Alongside Oppenheimer’s accomplishments, a bunker encases you in concrete and simulates a nuclear explosion. It is eerie and a sobering reminder of the power of the bombs. With Nolan’s movie debuting in seven months, it is an important lesson to remember.
More information can be found on the National Atomic Testing Museum and NTSHF website.